Silver sheet wire and tube in jewellery making

Understand silver sheet, wire and tube, their dimensions and temper, and how those starting forms differ from a finished design.

In this article

Silver can reach a jewellery bench as sheet, wire or tube. These words describe its starting shape. Supplier catalogues list fine and sterling silver in several such forms, with dimensions provided for each. A stock-form name is useful workshop vocabulary; it is not a description of a finished piece’s quality. Supplier form catalogue.

Sheet gives the maker a flat starting surface

Sheet is specified by length, width and thickness. Wire has a length and a cross-section, the shape seen at its cut end. That profile can be round, square, rectangular, oval or D-shaped. Naming the profile helps distinguish materials that a photograph of a coil might make look similar. Sheet and wire listings.

Imagine two workshop labels: “sterling sheet, 40 mm by 30 mm by 0.8 mm” and “sterling round wire, 1 mm diameter.” These invented labels describe different starting shapes. They say nothing about the final design. For a commission, let the maker identify which measurements concern the starting material and which describe the finished jewellery.

Illustration of metal sheet, coiled wire, hollow tubes, a jeweller’s saw and two hand files.
Illustration of stock forms and idle hand tools. It is not a photograph of a workshop or an operating lesson.

Tube has an inside as well as an outside

Tube has a hollow centre. Round tube needs an outside diameter, an inside diameter and a wall thickness. One supplier example lists 3.5 mm outside, 2.6 mm inside and a 0.45 mm wall. The wall lies on both sides of the opening, which explains the 0.9 mm difference between the diameters. Tube dimensions.

A maker can adapt tube into a stone setting. In Kernowcraft’s demonstrated project, the inside is prepared to support the stone and the upper rim holds it. The actual stone’s dimensions guide the choice of tube. A tube diameter on a supply list is therefore not a universal stone-fitting rule. Tutor’s tube-setting example.

Hardness condition is a separate detail

Stock may be supplied annealed, meaning softened for shaping, or in a harder condition. Cooksongold’s technical catalogue distinguishes soft annealed wire from hard wire. Form, thickness and temper belong in different parts of a specification; “wire” by itself leaves those choices open. Supplier temper information.

When discussing a piece, ask the maker to describe the intended construction in everyday terms. A useful answer identifies the starting form and then explains the resulting design. Avoid treating a single stock measurement as a shortcut for comfort, strength or craftsmanship.

Continue with fine silver and sterling silver to separate composition from component function. For the volume of a finished design, hollow jewellery forms explains why the appearance and the amount of metal need separate discussion.

Sources

  1. Exchange Findings Bullion Catalogue
  2. Samuel Findings Tube Catalogue
  3. How To Make A Tube Setting For A Faceted Stone
  4. Cooksongold Student Essentials Mailer
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